Warm weather brings a thirst for chilled white wines and rosés, lighter styles that offer refreshment as well as pleasant taste. But sunny evenings aren’t guaranteed as we ease into May, which is why I am shopping for fresh white wines with a richer and riper character.
I find that medium- to full-bodied examples of chenin blanc and chardonnay can be satisfying whether it’s positively spring-like or unseasonably cool outside. I’ve recommended a number to seek out until the weather finds its seasonal groove. There are many good examples from South Africa available, usually offering tremendous value for their price.
Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay and Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc are terrific options for the mixed bag of weather in store at this time of year.
I’ve also added rewarding styles of chardonnay and viognier from two admired family wineries in other parts of the world, Catena from Argentina and Yalumba from South Australia. Mention of the Catena name often calls deep ruby-coloured malbecs to consumers’ minds, but the winemaking team has refined their approach to producing chardonnay from four different estate vineyards that range from 950 metres above sea level in Agrelo to 1,450 metres in Gualtallary. Each brings a different mix of flavours and vibrancy to the finished blend.
Yalumba’s approach to its crowd-pleasing white wine also continues to evolve. The 2022 vintage show fleshy fruit and fragrant floral and ginger notes typical of the viognier grape, which would be appealing on cool and wet days and warm and sunny nights alike.
Arniston Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (South Africa), $14.95
While chenin blanc and chardonnay capture more attention, sauvignon blanc is a grape to watch in South Africa. There’s more sauvignon blanc planted than chardonnay and the style is typically fresh and invigorating, which makes it attractive to fans of refreshing white wines. Arniston Bay is a recent addition at LCBO outlets that shows classic sauvignon blanc character, with a pleasant mix of citrusy and green (herbal and vegetable) flavours. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2022 (South Africa), $17.95
Boschendal blends grapes from cooler vineyards in Elgin with chardonnay from Stellenbosch and Franschhoek for this well-made barrel-fermented white from South Africa. Fresh and flavourful thanks to abundant citrus and tropical fruit notes, the 2022 vintage shows good complexity and length, which add to the appeal. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $21.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $19.99 in Manitoba.
Catena High Mountain Vines Chardonnay 2022 (Argentina), $20.95
Well-known ambassadors of malbec, the Catena family has focused attention of producing rewarding expressions of chardonnay from its vineyards in Argentina. This medium-bodied white wine offers a satisfying core of citrus, pear and apple that are rounded out by toasty oak-derived notes. There’s serious structure and length on display. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $29.99 in Saskatchewan, $23.99 in Manitoba, $21.55 in Quebec, $25.29 in Nova Scotia.
Essay Chenin Blanc Viognier Roussanne 2023 (South Africa), $15.95
Produced by Man Vintners, Essay is a play on SA, an abbreviation of South Africa. The addition of viognier and roussanne adds fragrance and richness to the blend, but the abundant apple and tropical fruit flavours of this straightforward and fruity white are defined by chenin blanc. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2022 (South Africa), $17.95
One of South Africa’s most popular labels continues to shine a spotlight on the rich and refreshing character of chenin blanc from Stellenbosch. Winemaker Ken Forrester and his team have this full-bodied and flavourful white wine dialled in, with a blend of barrel-fermented and aged wines for weight and texture and ones from stainless steel tanks for freshness. The melon and apple flavours from the grapes are enhanced by spice, vanilla and honeyed notes that carry through to a lingering finish. Easy to appreciate now and one to consider for your cellar. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $23.49 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $32.99 in Saskatchewan, $23.99 in Manitoba, $18.75 in Quebec.
Protea Chenin Blanc 2022 (South Africa), $18.49
Named for South Africa’s national flower, this is a fresh and crowd-pleasing model of chenin blanc produced with grapes grown in a variety of regions, including Swartland, Paarl and Wellington. A lighter style white wine, this offers bright citrus, and juicy peach/apricot flavours gain some interest from earthy and herbal notes. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Villa da Vinci Streda Vermentino 2022 (Italy), $19.95
A stylish white wine from the property where Leonardo da Vinci grew up in the hills of Montalbano, this vermentino is focused with balanced citrus, floral and honeyed aroma and flavour. There’s nice texture and structure on offer, which makes this an expressive and enjoyable take on vermentino. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
With Love From The Cape Chenin Blanc 2023 (South Africa), $16.95
With Love From The Cape is a concept label produced by Rascallion Wines, a winemaking partnership that specializes in easy to appreciate wine brands from South Africa. The pure and unadorned style of this unoaked white wine means nothing detracts from chenin blanc’s fruity appeal. A mix of honey, apple and peach flavours stand out as part of a simple and effective wine that’s ready to drink. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $23.49 in British Columbia.
Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2022 (Australia), $15.95
Made in a medium-bodied and aromatic style, Yalumba’s Y Series label captures the appealing character of the viognier grape from South Australia. This is a dry white wine with a bold peach and apricot flavour that gains complexity from blossom and spice notes. Ripe, refreshing and memorable. Vegan. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia ($17.99 until June1), various prices in Alberta, $17.99 in Saskatchewan, $23.99 in Manitoba, $15.45 in Quebec, $20.29 in Nova Scotia.
Editor’s note: A previous version of this article included an incorrect price for Yalumba's Y Series viognier in British Columbia. It is $19.99 ($17.99 until June 1). This version has been updated.
Christopher Waters